A Month In Venice

The Venice Film Festival or Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica di Venezia is the oldest of all the film festivals in the entire world. The history of this festival started in 1932 as the Esposizione Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica and has evolved over the years. It is perhaps one of the lesser known film festivals with Sundance and Caan having more worldwide publicity and fame.

This festival takes place in the Palazzo del Cinema which is located on the Lungomare Marconi. There is of course awards for best film, best actor and actress and some other awards that are quite unique to Venice. The most unique award is best film of the controcorrente or against the stream section and this is of course called the San Marco award. This film festival usually takes place in late August to early September. For instance the last festival, which was the 64th, took place between August 29th and September 8th . What is really remarkable about this celebration is that all films since World War 2 were first premiered at this extravaganza.

The awards given for the best film are the Leone d’Oro or the Golden Lion which is awarded to the best film screened at the festival. And then there is the Coppa Volpi which is given to the best actress and actor.

This festival seems to be a good indicator of those films that are going to recieve the nod at the Golden Globe awards. For instance six films that premiered here received 18 nominations for the Golden Globe awards. I am not really sure why this is the case but it seems like always Italians are a good litmus test of what is of good taste.

If you are lucky enough to be in Venice during this time I am sure you are bound to see some celebrity that you like. If you are not at all in that sort of thing I would stay away as I am sure this place is swarming with press and paparazzi which can be quite exciting to say the least.

In Venice eating out can be a bit expensive, just like everything else in that city. However there are some things you should know before you venture out. For instance a good rule of thumb on how to spot a tourist restaurant is by the prices of their wines. A local house wine will be relatively inexpensive which means no more than 7 Euros. If the restaurant lists wines in the 15 euro range and above then I would avoid this place at all costs. The best advice I can give is to find a trusted local and go to where he or she eats. Some good advice can be found online at International Living or other online travel forums.

Now in regards to the typical Italian meal it consists of many courses. The first course is the appetizer or antipasto this is then followed by a pasta dish or primo piatto believe it or not this is then followed by a second course or secondo piatto which consists of either fish or some meat and then if the customer is not completely overwhelmed there is a dish of vegetables or salad which is called a controno and who could forget dessert or dolce to end it all. How a typical Italian can eat this is a mystery to most Americans because in American the portions are much bigger and we do not spend as much time eating as most Europeans do. However I would like to point out that in Venice that the typical Venetian is not as obsessed with food as the other Italians are. In fact you will see many Venetians eating quick bites at small bars.

Tipping is another point of contention for many foreigners in Europe. In America it is customary to tip anywhere between 15-20 percent of the ticket while in Europe it is their custom to only tip a few Euros per person as there is an already included cover charge added to most bills. This cover charge usually consists of a 12% addition to the bill plus a charge for the bread and linens which should only be a few Euros added to the bill.

For vegetarians Europe is actually quite accommodating. I guess they do not have as much hang-ups with eating meat at each meal as some other countries do. However you may find that some Venetian restaurants do not offer anything for a vegetarian. This is when a solid understanding of some basic Italian dishes come in handy. Most places will be willing to serve some vegetarian pastas and it would behoove you to learn to name these dishes by heart as you may end up ordering something special for yourself if you can not find anything on the menu.

Hopefully in the future I will have a series on some of the better places to eat in Venice that are known for their quality and for their local flair as well. I know no one wants to be ripped off when on vacation and if I can prevent this I will.

The San Croce sesteri is perhaps one of the least known of the districts in Venice. However it should not be overlooked by an astute traveler to Venice. This is because in this district are many fine restaurants and shops that are not as frequented by tourists as in other districts. What does this mean to you? It means a more real Venice experience and a ultimately less expensive one as well. If you want to make each dollar  count then be sure to explore this neighborhood on your stay.

Since this is a district not frequented by many tourists you are probably thinking that there is not much to see here. Well that would be a false assumption as there are many places to see. The Ca Pesaro is off the Grand Canal and is home to the modern art museum. This is by far one of the most important art galleries in the whole of Italy and contains works from many countries and not just Italy. Secondly there is the Fondaco dei Turchi which has one of the most beautiful exteriors in the whole of Venice and was once a trading warehouse. At this moment the building is used to house the natural history museum of Venice.

This district is one of the best for nightlife in the city. If you are young and hip I am sure you will want to check out Baffo’s bar in Campo Sant Agostin. For pizza in the area I would check out Ae Oche as this place makes over 90 varieties of pizza that I am sure is bound to please at least someone in your group. For a more picturesque view while eating I would go down to Trattoria al Ponte which is very near to the bridge and has a few outdoor tables. Finally if you want a unique experience that you will not find anywhere else be sure to check out La Zucca which has a reputation for a innovative use of its vegetables.

It is hard to find a truly unique experience when visiting a tourist trap that is Venice Italy. However this neighborhood is sure to be a highlight to the savvy traveler and not the average tourist. I would however make sure that you are somewhat conversant in the Italian language as I am sure your experience will be enhanced.

Venice’s history is centered on maritime activities. The cities very survival depended upon having a well trained group of maritime sailors who could outwit and outrun all around them.  Such history spawned Venice’s Historical Regatta which is meant to showcase the mastery of the sea and the ships that ride upon her.

The first Sunday of September is when this event takes place. There are many other Regatta’s from the various islands in the Venetian lagoon that are held all throughout the year but the true Regata storica takes place at this time.

This race is very similar in tone and shape to the Palio of Sienna. You see in this race like the Palio the boats are from their respective neighborhoods and each neighborhood turns out to root on their team of rowers who are competing for the honor of winning the race.

What is probably of interest of the tourists that visit at this time is the various processions of boats that proceed down the Grand Canal. First you have the bisonni or the 8 oared gondolas then the balotine which are 6 oared gondolas then following this is the decorative boats from the various rowing clubs. Following this procession of boats is a regatta for the children which is then followed by a race just for the women then a race of two oared gondolas which represent each neighborhood. At the regattas conclusion the whole of Venice comes alive with a city wide celebration that fills each canal and street with merchants and street entertainers.

If you are fortunate to be in Venice during this time I am sure you will not be bored with what is going on at this time. I would say that this festival would even rival the Carnival of Venice, although I may get some heat for saying this but I am willing to take it.

Finding cheap accommodations in Venice Italy is not an easy task. Let’s face it the words budget and Venice Italy are not usually mixed in the same sentence together. It is certainly not what the town is best known for that is for sure.

However the following posts should help out the average reader in saving some money on their stay in Venice. It should certainly help out those students looking for budget accommodations as well.

Budget Hotels in Castello

Budget Hotels in San Croce

Budget Hotels in Cannaregio

Budget Hotels in San Marco

Budget Hotels in Dorsoduro

For those that want a longer stay be sure to visit my post on student apartments in Venice Italy. It is certainly worth a look in my opinion.