A Month In Venice

Harry’s Bar is perhaps one of the most famous of Venice’s landmarks and it is certainly one of Italy’s most famous restaurants in the country. The service at this cultural institution is outstanding and the food unparalleled in its quality. What has made this bar so famous was the generous mention of Ernest Hemingway in his book Across the River and into the Trees and following this many other notable people have walked through the doors of this establishment. If you are going to eat out in Venice and choose to splurge a bit I would definitely drop by this place as it is well worth it. Of course I would be sure to check to see if you need reservations beforehand as you will most likely will need to do so.

This is the bar where the famous Bellini drink was first made. Also the drink the Montgomery cocktail was also invented here as well. World renowned for its cooking the bar has its own cookbooks that you can pick up in any well stocked book store or Amazon.com.

This one bar has spawned an entire line of restaurants all throughout the world. From this bar the bars Harry Cipriani, Cipriani 42nd Street and Manhattan’s famous Rainbow Room as well as a catering company. As well the Cipriani’s, the owners of Harry’s Bar, have a line of their own olive oils, cook books and kitchenware.

Now it has been said that this is an over-hyped landmark with well overpriced food but you can say that about any restaurant in your own town. If you do choose to visit this bar I w ould be sure to sit upstairs as the view is far better and you look upon the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute and I am sure that this view is not easily matched anywhere else. Besides do you not want to go to a place visited by some of the most famous people who have walked this Earth?

If you want to eat in Venice on a budget then you must be a bit creative. As I have stated many times in this blog Venice is an expensive place. Many Italians will scoff at your idea of trying to survive in that city on a small budget. They should know as they are the experts in their hometown. However it is possible to save at least some money when trying to see all that Venice has to offer.

Here are some few tips and tricks to save money while in Venice. First be sure to visit the various baccari that are all throughout the city. These are the wine bars that serve what would be approximate to Spanish Tapas. If you want to find a good wine bar I would ask a local that you trust. If you can tell ahead of time if the restaurant you want to go is a pizzeria, a trattoria or ristorante then this will surely save you some money. The least expensive of the three is the pizzeria and the most expensive is the ristorante while a trattoria fits somewhere in the middle of the three classifications. There is really no sure way to tell from the outside but it is a safe bet that if there is linens on the tables then that is most certainly a ristorante and if you are on a budget I would only go to those sparingly.

Fortunately I did find a few good recommendations of some more notable restaurants to eat in Venice that will not break your bank account or cause you to open a second mortgage.

The first restaurant that I would recommend would be Rosticceria Teatro Goldoni which is perhaps one of the best examples of classical Venetian fast food. It is a cafeteria style establishment that is well known for their fresh salads that seem to be the favorite to the American crowd.

Secondly I would visit Osteria a la Campana which is quite a find in Venice. The fine wood paneling of the place does not match the inexpensive yet high quality meals that are served here. There is no menu as the waiters come to your table and tell you what is available for the day. It is a real experience that a traveler should experience and hopefully the tourists will keep away from as that would surely wreck the place.

Lastly the final restaurant I would recommend Vini da Pinto which is best known for its fresh seafood. This place is just right off the fish market so it should be easy to spot but overlooked by many tourists. If you enjoy seafood at all I would definitely go here to experience what would be a real Venetian lunch with the locals.

There are a few more restaurant recommendations I could give but this should keep you busy on your stay in Venice. Not spending an enormous amount of money in Venice can be difficult but with the help of some locals you are sure to find the gems that this city has to offer.

Visiting Venice is perhaps one of the best things you can do if you are traveling to Italy. In fact I believe that you will not truly gain the essence of what an Italian life is like without visit to this city. However with this in mind I am sure that for many Venice is just one part of a series of destinations. So then you may ask from where can I visit Venice? What other attractions are worth my time before I go? It turns out there are many cities and places to see before you visit Venice as the surrounding area is just as rich in history and culture as any other part of Italy. Let’s face it if your country is credited with the start of the modern
western civilization then you are sure to have something to see everywhere you go.

It is quite well known that the area surrounding Venice is one of the wealthiest in the whole of Europe. So finding cheap accommodations can be a bit of a challenge however I am sure that many astute travelers will know how to cope.

Verona
Verona has been listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site due to its many historical buildings. One of the buildings that this city is best known for is its amphitheatre or arena which was completed around 30 C.E. and was the sight for many gladiator and other forms of entertainment that drew crowds from all around the city. Another site to see is the Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore which is really indicative of Romanesque architecture and I am sure is a sight worth seeing if you are at all into history or architecture.

Verona is also known as the place where Julius Caesar went to relax from his duties as Emperor of the then growing Roman Empire. As well Verona is the setting for the Shakespeare play Romeo and Juliet. A balcony claiming to be the balcony that inspired one of the most famous scenes in the play is a tourist destination and a place where a bronze statue of Juliet stands and it is believed that if you rub her breast you will receive good luck.

Padua
Padua is the communications hub of the Veneto province and is also listed by UNESCO as a world Heritage site due to its many historical buildings. Like Verona Padua also has a connection to Shakespeare as this is the setting for the play The Taming of the Shrew. This city claims to be the oldest city in the area however that is not really verified. Padua did not come into the rule of the Venetians until quite late in 1405. This city has a rich history that is worth exploring especially if you are into art and architecture. Many Roman soldiers came out of this city and there are many archeological remnants still being discovered.

Vicenza
This city is a short train trip away from Venice as it is only 60km away. This should make for a quick day trip either from or to Venice. Like the other cities above this city is also listed as UNESCO world heritage site due to its many historical buildings. This city did not become part of Rome until 45 B.C.E. when all inhabitants of the city obtained Roman citizenship. There is little left of the Roman architecture except for some still standing aquaducts. There are however many examples of Palladio’s works left in this city such as the Villa Capra and the Basilica Palladiana which stands in Vicenza’s Piazza dei Signori. Further sites to see are the Teatro Olimpico which was built for the Accademia degli Olimpici. As you can see there are many sights to see that is surrounding the city of Venice.

A quick day trip out of the city is sure to change the pace a bit for those that are either interested in art, architecture or history as there are many examples all three located everywhere in the Veneto region.

The Venice Film Festival or Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica di Venezia is the oldest of all the film festivals in the entire world. The history of this festival started in 1932 as the Esposizione Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica and has evolved over the years. It is perhaps one of the lesser known film festivals with Sundance and Caan having more worldwide publicity and fame.

This festival takes place in the Palazzo del Cinema which is located on the Lungomare Marconi. There is of course awards for best film, best actor and actress and some other awards that are quite unique to Venice. The most unique award is best film of the controcorrente or against the stream section and this is of course called the San Marco award. This film festival usually takes place in late August to early September. For instance the last festival, which was the 64th, took place between August 29th and September 8th . What is really remarkable about this celebration is that all films since World War 2 were first premiered at this extravaganza.

The awards given for the best film are the Leone d’Oro or the Golden Lion which is awarded to the best film screened at the festival. And then there is the Coppa Volpi which is given to the best actress and actor.

This festival seems to be a good indicator of those films that are going to recieve the nod at the Golden Globe awards. For instance six films that premiered here received 18 nominations for the Golden Globe awards. I am not really sure why this is the case but it seems like always Italians are a good litmus test of what is of good taste.

If you are lucky enough to be in Venice during this time I am sure you are bound to see some celebrity that you like. If you are not at all in that sort of thing I would stay away as I am sure this place is swarming with press and paparazzi which can be quite exciting to say the least.

Venice’s history is centered on maritime activities. The cities very survival depended upon having a well trained group of maritime sailors who could outwit and outrun all around them.  Such history spawned Venice’s Historical Regatta which is meant to showcase the mastery of the sea and the ships that ride upon her.

The first Sunday of September is when this event takes place. There are many other Regatta’s from the various islands in the Venetian lagoon that are held all throughout the year but the true Regata storica takes place at this time.

This race is very similar in tone and shape to the Palio of Sienna. You see in this race like the Palio the boats are from their respective neighborhoods and each neighborhood turns out to root on their team of rowers who are competing for the honor of winning the race.

What is probably of interest of the tourists that visit at this time is the various processions of boats that proceed down the Grand Canal. First you have the bisonni or the 8 oared gondolas then the balotine which are 6 oared gondolas then following this is the decorative boats from the various rowing clubs. Following this procession of boats is a regatta for the children which is then followed by a race just for the women then a race of two oared gondolas which represent each neighborhood. At the regattas conclusion the whole of Venice comes alive with a city wide celebration that fills each canal and street with merchants and street entertainers.

If you are fortunate to be in Venice during this time I am sure you will not be bored with what is going on at this time. I would say that this festival would even rival the Carnival of Venice, although I may get some heat for saying this but I am willing to take it.