A Month In Venice

The island of Giudecca was originally called Spinalunga most likely after the shape of the island. You see Spinalunga means a long spine of rock which is pretty much the shape of Giudecca. This island is in the Dorsoduro district of Venice and it is right off the Grand Canal so it should be easy to get to.

The term Giudecca is derived from the Jewish inhabitants who used to live there at one time. Later the island became more of an industrial center with even a film studio located there. Now this is one of the most exclusive places to live in the entire Venetian lagoon as it is sought after for its many palaces with gardens that you do not see in the city of Venice.

This part of Venice is where most of the real inhabitants live and work. This is definitely not a tourist trap however there are more and more hotels opening all the time. If you want to really get a feel for living in the city I would stay on this island as the people here are real and the surrounding atmosphere is not catered to just tourists.

However you may wonder what is there to see on this island? Well for one you can see the historical gardens that you do not find anywhere else. As there are many short term apartment buildings here you should not have trouble staying for a period of time here.

I would like to point out that Giudecca is not just one island but it is a chain of eight islands like Venice all networked by a bridges. You may not see the ornate work that some of the other bridges have in Venice as this is a place overlooked by many tourists who only come for a day.

There are plenty of restaurants on this island and a lot of them are fairly good. You certainly should not find too many tourist traps here. However as this island is not as frequented by tourists the locals might not be willing to speak to you in English so having a moderate grasp of the Italian language will go far here. One of the eyesores of the island is the industrial section.  You see the industrial section of this island lost most of its work after the second world war. So in contrast with some of the main islands you will see some abandoned and ruined buildings in an old industrial park. It really does not add much character to the island and I am sure that eventually these eyesores will be replaced with something better, hopefully soon. One of the worst things the city rulers can do is turn this island into another tourist trap. I would much rather see this part of Venice kept as real as possible.

Sometimes even though you might be on a budget when visiting Venice it is good to indulge yourself and others in some really fine dining. With this city’s reputation of being one of the most romantic cities in the whole of Europe it just stands to reason that spending a romantic evening with the one you love to be a right of passage and something that all couples should do while here.

With this in mind I have gathered a few of the more indulgent places to eat to tickle your senses and hopefully spark the mood for a wonderful evening. Now just as a bit of warning these restaurants are not cheap and that is by Venice standards which is about 15% higher then the whole of Europe so please plan accordingly. Also since most of these restaurants are known for their high quality it is a good idea to make reservations well ahead of time so as to not embarrass yourself.

The Met
Hotel Metropole
041-520-5044
http://www.hotelmetropole.com
This is the only Michelin starred restaurant in the whole of Venice. So obviously the quality of the food is not in doubt and the elegant surroundings match the city and the food that they serve. Please keep in mind that the specialties center around the fresh seafood so if you do not like seafood I would stay away from this restaurant.

Da Flore
+39 41 72 1308
Considered by some of the locals of Venice to be one of the finest dining experiences in the city. A serious atmosphere pervades the restaurant as the food is taken very seriously here. They are famous for their scallops in penne or even their bigoli in salsa which is handmade spaghetti in a sauce of mixed anchovies and onions.

Harry’s Bar
041-528-5777
Discussed previously in this blog Harry’s Bar is by far one of the most famous destinations for American tourists. This restaurant is known for its relationship with Ernest Hemingway and other notable stars of the past and present. The food here can be a bit pricey and you must have reservations but the experience is second to none.

Harry’s Dolci
041-522-4844
This restaurant is more of a trattoria then a fine dining experience. Serving much of the same food as Harry’s bar with much less expensive prices. This is well worth a visit as the atmosphere alone can capture your heart and imagination. This restaurant is in the same family as Harry’s bar but since it is not as famous you can still get the experience of eating in a good restaurant without such a high price.

There are many more restaurants to share and I will in later posts. However if you are planning a trip to Venice in the near future I would really look into these restaurants. You can really wow someone you care about by taking them to one or all of these places.

The Carnavale of Venice is perhaps one of the defining festivals of the city. You cannot go anywhere near the Rialto bridge without seeing some masks and other costume wear for sale. Other websites even have the masks as symbolic icons to represent the city of Venice.

For this year, 2008, the Carnavale is schedule to happen around January 25th to February 5th as it follows the Catholic month of lent. Like other carnivals the one in Venice is meant to celebrate the time after lent. However unlike other carnivals the one in Venice is by far more grand.

The typical food served at this time are fritole and crostoli which are fried sweets that are made in all the coffee shops in the city. If you are visiting there are numerous rental shops that offer costumes for you to wear during this time.

However in order to gain a proper perspective on this celebration one must consider its history and influence in Venice and the Italian culture. The root of this festival is from early pagan sources and was adapted to fit into Catholic rituals. However the oldest record found in regards to this festival dates back to May 2nd, 1268. There is real no evidence that this celebration, in its current incarnation, occurred before this date however it would be logical to assume that it did since it does have early pagan origins.

Since masks hid the persons true identity this time of the year all residents of Venice were considered equal to one degree or another. However several laws were passed in order to ensure the safety and dignity of various groups. For instance it was illegal to talk to nuns with a mask on as this could most likely cause various unsavory people to spread gossip. Also to wear a mask with religious clothes were also strictly forbidden to keep the priest class free from controversy.

The number of disguises that one could wear were immense as you could pretend to be just about anyone you wanted during this time. Costumes for fishermen, barbers, butchers and the gambit were all available during this time. Believe it or not you could actually dress up to be a demon during this festival. Each of these disguises served their purpose for the short period that they were in use. I am sure that this festival kept the populace entertained and rid them of their more unsavory desires for the rest of the year. Either way the festival of Carnavale in Venice is sure to please some that enjoy this type of entertainment.

The history of Venice is quite vast as the city has been around for many years. Founded in 421 C.E. on April 25th or what is known as St. Mark’s day that of course is the icon of the city of Venice. The very reason the city was founded was because of the tribes of barbarians that would come down to sack the various Roman cities. It is out of fear and the preservation of culture that these islands off of the Italian mainland were built upon.

For many years the isolation of Venice kept it from being embroiled into the everyday politics of Italian life. Because of this Venice became a mercantile capital of the region and most likely was responsible for its later influence in world affairs. The city’s wealth came from the surrounding sea, from the salt and fish, that they could trade for what they did not have. From this humble beginning a glorious city was created.

The building of the city invented new and improved methods of construction. Because of each successive wave of invaders brought more and more refugees larger structures were necessary to house all the people. Land reclamation at that time was primitive and needed to be improved. The pilings that many houses of Venice sit upon were placed there over a thousand years ago and have never been replaced by something more substantial. It is this reason that the city of Venice is now sinking and efforts are in place in order to preserve it.

The city did not really become a cohesive whole until later when a sea wall was built to keep away pirates and the various storms. When the Venetians felt safe and isolated then the culture of the city and the later Empire started to come to fruition. So we can see that the start of Venice was really to keep home and hearth safe from barbarian hordes that were sweeping down into the Roman Empire. From fear arose a great city and Empire that would rival many other in the area. This city has been a haven for many others as well as this is a center for art and music as the wealth of the city started to be distributed to these craftsmen.

Harry’s Bar is perhaps one of the most famous of Venice’s landmarks and it is certainly one of Italy’s most famous restaurants in the country. The service at this cultural institution is outstanding and the food unparalleled in its quality. What has made this bar so famous was the generous mention of Ernest Hemingway in his book Across the River and into the Trees and following this many other notable people have walked through the doors of this establishment. If you are going to eat out in Venice and choose to splurge a bit I would definitely drop by this place as it is well worth it. Of course I would be sure to check to see if you need reservations beforehand as you will most likely will need to do so.

This is the bar where the famous Bellini drink was first made. Also the drink the Montgomery cocktail was also invented here as well. World renowned for its cooking the bar has its own cookbooks that you can pick up in any well stocked book store or Amazon.com.

This one bar has spawned an entire line of restaurants all throughout the world. From this bar the bars Harry Cipriani, Cipriani 42nd Street and Manhattan’s famous Rainbow Room as well as a catering company. As well the Cipriani’s, the owners of Harry’s Bar, have a line of their own olive oils, cook books and kitchenware.

Now it has been said that this is an over-hyped landmark with well overpriced food but you can say that about any restaurant in your own town. If you do choose to visit this bar I w ould be sure to sit upstairs as the view is far better and you look upon the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute and I am sure that this view is not easily matched anywhere else. Besides do you not want to go to a place visited by some of the most famous people who have walked this Earth?